What a cleansing facial balm is and what it's for
The cleansing facial balm is a solid or semi-solid textured product, based on oils and plant waxes, that melts on contact with the warmth of your hands and turns into a light oil capable of dissolving makeup, sunscreen and the day's oily impurities. Its strength lies precisely there: since oil dissolves oil, it lifts away waterproof makeup without the need to rub or use harsh products.
It has become especially popular as the first step of double cleansing, a method that combines an oil-based cleanser—the balm—with a second water-based cleanser, to achieve a thorough cleanse without pulling at the skin or leaving it unprotected.
Why use a balm instead of another type of cleanser
Compared to a gel or a foam, the balm has a clear advantage: it's applied to dry skin, without needing to wet it first, which reduces friction during the massage. Compared to a cleansing milk, it usually has more power to dissolve long-wear makeup, waterproof eyeshadow or mineral sunscreen, which can sometimes be hard to remove with just water and cotton pads.
It's a good option for almost any skin type, including oily skin, because despite its oily texture it rinses off completely with water and leaves no residue if properly emulsified. On dry or mature skin, it also provides a comforting feeling that other formats don't offer.
How to use a cleansing facial balm
- With dry hands and face, take a hazelnut-sized amount and warm it between your fingers until it melts.
- Spread over the entire face, including the eyelids if the formula allows it, and massage in circular motions for one or two minutes.
- Add a few drops of warm water with your hands and keep massaging: the balm emulsifies and takes on a milkier texture.
- Remove with a damp cloth or rinse directly with water, making sure not to leave any residue along the hairline or eyebrows.
- If you were wearing makeup or sunscreen, follow up with a second water-based cleanser to leave your skin truly clean.
What to look for in the formula of a cleansing balm
- Vegetable oils such as sunflower, olive or jojoba: they determine the feel on the skin and its ability to dissolve makeup.
- Natural waxes: give the balm its solid texture and the way it melts with heat.
- Alcohol-free formulas: preferable if the skin is sensitive or reactive.
- Texture when emulsifying: a good balm turns into a fine milk on contact with water; if it stays very oily, it can be harder to remove properly.
Common mistakes with cleansing balm
The most common one is not emulsifying enough before rinsing: if the balm is removed while still very oily, it can leave a film that later hinders the absorption of your serum or moisturiser. It's also common to apply too little, which reduces its ability to glide over the skin and forces you to rub more than necessary.
Another mistake is thinking that a balm always replaces a second cleanser: on skin with full makeup or long-lasting sunscreen, using it as the only step can leave residue in the pores. It's also worth being careful around the eyes if the formula isn't designed for that area, always removing it gently without pulling on the eyelid.
When to add a cleansing balm to your routine
You don't need to use it every night to notice its benefits. It makes more sense on days when there's makeup to remove, after a day with a lot of sunscreen, or simply when you fancy a more unhurried cleansing ritual than a quick gel. On days without makeup, a water-based cleanser is usually enough on its own.
A balm also works well as a transitional step between seasons: in the colder months, when skin tends to dry out more due to heating, its oily texture provides extra comfort compared to more degreasing cleansers. In summer, after sun exposure and with more sunscreen built up on the skin, this is precisely when its ability to dissolve residue without rubbing is most appreciated.
Stored in a cool place with the cap tightly closed, a cleansing balm keeps its texture better; excessive heat can make it too liquid and harder to apply with your hands.