What is a ylang ylang perfume?
A ylang ylang perfume is always built on a yellow, star-shaped flower from a tropical tree, whose aroma combines a spicy touch reminiscent of clove with a sweet, creamy and slightly fruity facet, close to ripe banana. It's one of the sunniest flowers in perfumery, capable of adding sensuality and warmth to any composition without needing to rely on woods, ambers or other supporting ingredients. Its narcotic, intense character makes it an easily recognisable note, very different from other more discreet and restrained white flowers.
Origin and extraction of ylang ylang
The ylang ylang tree, Cananga odorata, is native to the Philippines, though it was the French who introduced it to the island of Reunion during the eighteenth century and, later, to the Comoros and Madagascar in the early twentieth century. The Comoros quickly became the world's leading producer, to the point of being popularly known as the "islands of perfume" due to the importance of this crop to their economy. The essence is obtained through fractional steam distillation, a long process lasting ten to twenty-four hours, which captures different qualities as it progresses, each with a slightly different olfactory profile from the previous one.
Ylang ylang extra
This corresponds to the first fraction of the distillate, the richest, most floral and complex, the only one truly intended for the finest, highest-quality perfumery and the benchmark standard among perfumers.
Later fractions
The qualities I, II and III that follow the extra are increasingly less concentrated and complex; they're used in cosmetics and soap-making, with a much flatter floral profile that's less interesting to a perfumer.
How ylang ylang smells in the olfactory pyramid
It's usually placed in the heart of the composition, although its good tenacity means it's also well perceived well into the final phase of the perfume. In its purest, undiluted form it can be overwhelming, almost narcotic, with an intensity reminiscent of a tropical garden in full bloom; diluted and blended with other materials, that excess turns into a creamy, spicy warmth that gives character to the whole fragrance without becoming overpowering. It's also one of the flowers with the best tenacity in perfumery, capable of accompanying a perfume's evolution for much of the day without losing intensity.
What notes and families ylang ylang pairs with
It pairs naturally with other white flowers such as jasmine, tuberose or orange blossom, reinforcing its narcotic and exotic character. With vanilla and sandalwood it gains a creamy warmth very characteristic of oriental perfumery; with spices such as clove or nutmeg it reinforces its own spicy profile; and with coconut or monoi it creates sunny accords that directly evoke the tropics and holidays by the sea. It's also used alongside musks to soften its intensity and bring it closer to a more skin-on-skin register.
When to wear a ylang ylang perfume: season and moment
Its sunny, tropical character naturally associates it with summer and holidays, although its warmth also works well in autumn and winter within denser oriental compositions. Due to its intensity, it's usually preferred in the evening, when its projection has plenty of room to unfold without being excessive in very enclosed spaces. It's a note especially enjoyed in warm climates, where its exotic character naturally fits the atmosphere and the light clothing typical of that time of year.
Who likes a ylang ylang perfume: character
It attracts those looking for sensual, warm fragrances with a clear exotic vocation, far from the minimalist or overly discreet. It's a note that conveys confidence and a touch of tropical escapism even in the middle of winter, when warmth is most missed. Those who prefer fresh, green or aquatic scents may find it too intense; for those looking for a spicy flower with an enveloping warmth, capable of carrying an entire composition on its own, ylang ylang remains one of the most singular and evocative notes in all of tropical perfumery.
