What a cleansing oil is and how it works
Cleansing oil is an oil-based cleanser designed to dissolve makeup, including waterproof formulas, without the need to rub the skin. It works on a very simple principle: oil dissolves oil. Waxes, pigments and sunscreens blend better with an oil base than with water, so instead of forcibly dragging the makeup off, the oil dissolves it and leaves it ready to be removed with a simple rinse.
It's one of the most effective formats for waterproof mascara, long-lasting eyeshadow or mineral sunscreen, products that can sometimes be hard to remove with just micellar water or a conventional gel. By adding water during the massage, the oil transforms into a light emulsion that rinses off without leaving a greasy feeling, if done correctly.
What skin types is it suitable for
There's a common belief that an oily product isn't suitable for oily skin, but with cleansing oils, in many cases the opposite is true:
- Oily skin: it may seem counterintuitive, but a well-formulated oil dissolves excess sebum and makeup without the need for harsh surfactants, and rinses off completely with water.
- Dry or dehydrated skin: it cleanses without stripping away natural hydration, avoiding the typical tightness caused by more degreasing gels.
- Sensitive skin: since it doesn't require rubbing, it reduces the risk of irritation compared to cleansers that require vigorous rubbing.
- Skin with waterproof makeup: this is, in general, the most effective format for removing it without needing several steps.
How to properly use a cleansing oil
- Apply the oil to a completely dry face, with dry hands as well, so it can work at its full potential.
- Massage in circular motions for one or two minutes, including the eyelids if the formula allows it.
- Wet your hands with warm water and continue massaging: the oil begins to emulsify and its colour turns more whitish.
- Rinse with plenty of warm water until no oily feeling remains.
- If you were wearing full makeup, follow up with a second water-based cleanser for a deeper cleanse.
What sets a good cleansing oil apart
- Ability to emulsify: a good oil transforms into a fine milk on contact with water; if it still feels very oily after rinsing, it's harder to remove.
- Origin of the oils: jojoba, sunflower or argan are common due to their good tolerance and light texture.
- Alcohol-free: preferable for sensitive or reactive skin.
- Final texture after rinsing: skin should feel clean and supple, not with a film-like sensation.
Common mistakes when using cleansing oil
The most common mistake is applying it to damp skin: oil needs dry skin to work well from the start, since water interferes with its ability to dissolve makeup. It's also common to rinse too soon, without letting the oil fully emulsify with water, which leaves a greasy feeling and forces you to rinse several times.
Another typical mistake is using too little product thinking you'll 'make it last': oil works best when it glides easily over the skin, and with too little you end up rubbing more than necessary. Finally, it's best to avoid mixing it with cold water, which makes emulsification harder; warm water makes the process much easier.
Cleansing oil versus other oil-based cleansers
Cleansing oil belongs to the same family as balms and cleansing butters, but it differs in its starting texture: it's liquid straight from the bottle, making it especially quick to apply, with no need to warm it between your hands as with a solid balm. This fluidity also makes it easier to cover large areas of the face and neck with a small amount of product.
Compared to a cleansing milk, oil usually has a greater ability to dissolve very stubborn makeup, although milk can feel more comfortable for those who prefer a less slippery texture on the hands. There's no absolute better format: the choice depends on the type of makeup you typically wear and how much comfort your skin seeks during the cleansing massage.
As with any oil-based cleanser, it should be stored away from direct heat sources and with the dispenser tightly closed, so the formula doesn't change over time.
