The notes of a perfume are the olfactory layers that we perceive over time after applying a fragrance. They are organized by volatility into three levels: top notes (initial impact), heart notes (central character), and base notes (persistence). Understanding them allows you to interpret olfactory cards, predict the evolution on your skin, and choose more accurately.
Top notes: the first impact
The top notes appear right after applying the perfume and usually last between 5 and 15 minutes. They are light, bright, and highly volatile. They provide freshness and define the "first impression" of the scent.
- Characteristics: lively, sparkling, clean.
- Common ingredients: citrus (bergamot, lemon, orange), green (cut leaves), aquatic, light aromatic.
- What to expect: a fresh start that quickly fades, preparing the way for the heart.
Heart notes: the body of the fragrance
The heart notes emerge when the top notes soften and can last for several hours. They hold the identity of the perfume and blend with the base to gain depth.
- Characteristics: roundness, balance, recognizable character.
- Common ingredients: floral (rose, jasmine, peony), fruity, spicy (cinnamon, cardamom), some herbal.
- What to expect: the profile that most will remember from the perfume; here the style and intention of the composition is perceived.
Base notes: the lasting imprint
The base notes are less volatile and last longer, fixing and completing the fragrance. They are often warm, creamy, or woody.
- Characteristics: depth, warmth, longevity.
- Common ingredients: woods (cedar, sandalwood, vetiver), resins and balsams (amber, benzoin, incense), musks, vanilla, patchouli.
- What to expect: a more intimate trail with great persistence on skin and fabrics; it can last from hours to a day or more.
Why the notes of a perfume change: volatility
The evolution of the perfume is explained by the volatility of its components. The light molecules (top) evaporate first; the medium ones (heart) sustain the aroma; the heavier ones (base) remain and fix. Perfumers balance these layers with fixatives to achieve longevity and sillage.
Learn more about perfume longevity
How to read an olfactory pyramid
An "olfactory pyramid" summarizes the structure of a perfume:
- Top: indicates the start and initial sensation (e.g., bergamot, marine notes).
- Heart: signifies the main character (e.g., rose and jasmine).
- Base: shows the lasting foundation (e.g., sandalwood, amber, musk).
If you want to delve into the technical terminology of notes (top, heart, and base), chords, and fixatives, consult the professional glossary of the Société Française d’Aromatiques, a reference in the industry in Grasse.
Tip: not all pyramids are exact; they are descriptive guides. The real experience depends on your skin, climate, and dosage.
Tips for choosing your perfume based on its notes
- Identify what you like in the opening: if you seek a clean sensation, prioritize citrus/aquatic in the top notes.
- Ensure the heart represents you: floral if you want romance; spicy if you prefer character; fruity for brightness.
- Prioritize the base according to your lifestyle: woods/resins for longer lasting; musks/vanilla for comfortable warmth.
- Test on skin and wait 2–3 hours: this way you will evaluate the heart and base, not just the top notes.
- Adjust concentration to your needs: EDT for daily freshness; EDP/Parfum for more longevity and presence.
How to identify the notes of a perfume
- On blotters: compare openings and select 2–3 candidates.
- On skin: apply on wrists/forearms; do not rub.
- Wait: check at 10 minutes (top), 1–2 hours (heart), and at the end of the day (base).
- Environment: test in conditions similar to your actual use (climate, activity).
- Record: note impressions by phase to decide with criteria.
